beach

Mauritian moments

May 19, 2023

Photography – Helen Janneson Bense

Location – Mauritius

Where to stay – Sands Suites Resort and Spa | Paradis Beachcomber Golf resort | The Oberoi Beach Resort

What to do –

SEE – Visit Château de Bel Ombre and Nature reserve | Visit Seven Coloured earth and waterfall in Chamarel | Stroll along the beach at Paradis and take in the grand views of the basaltic monolith Le Morne | Visit Château De Labourdonnais | Visit the Sacred Lake Hindu Temple in Grand Bassin/Ganga Talao

EAT – Enjoy local food at Escale Creole | Dinner at Umami at Dinarobin Resort | Lunch at La Table Du Château

EXPERIENCE – Snorkel and swim with wild turtles and dolphins at the Oberoi | | Take a seaplane from La Prairie beach over the underwater waterfall illusion | Rum tasting at the La Rhumerie de Chamarel | Take a catamaran from Blue Bay Marine Park to Ile aux Cerfs | Scenic helicopter tour with Air Mauritius

Get ready for a sensory journey with a vibrancy you can see, feel, hear and taste. Feel the island energy of Mauritius. Enjoy vivid sunrises, sunsets, make sure to take in a traditional Sega performance and indulge in the incredible array of flavours in their local cuisine. It also wouldn’t be a trip to Mauritius without a rum tasting or two.

It was hard to believe that this was winter in Mauritius. The days were hot and sunny, with balmy nights perfect for summer dresses and poolside cocktails. I traveled with Air Mauritius, direct from Perth, making it easier than ever to enjoy this island paradise and trade the beanies for bikinis.

Mauritius is quite a small island nation off the East African coastline, approximately 60km in length and 45km wide. I was first struck by the breathtaking scenery, a mix of volcanic landscape, covered in lush greenery, surrounded by postcard perfect beaches. It’s a melting pot of many diverse cultures and religions, Indian, African, European and Chinese, coming together to create a rich tapestry of experience. They mostly speak French based Mauritian Creole and English is widely understood and spoken.

Hinduism is the primary religion of Mauritius and a visit to the Sacred water temple in Grand Bassin/Ganga Talao is a rite of passage as you immerse yourself into Mauritius life. An Indian Hindu priest dreamt of this sacred place many years before he traveled here. Once he arrived and recognised it from his dream, it became one of the biggest temples in Mauritius and outside of India. Many pilgrimages are made here each year.

I stayed in three different resorts in Mauritius exploring the surrounding areas of each place. My journey began in Flic en Flac in the Black River region at the Sands Suites resort and spa. An absolutely wonderful resort with impeccable service and amenities. The mountainous views over the pool were an incredible sight to wake up to. We ventured further south to Paradis Beachcomber Golf resort, located on the south western tip with majestic views of Le Morne Brabant. It had the the best white sand beach and turquoise water of the trip. It was however a very large resort, so the service was busy and did feel impersonal at times. The last resort stay was The Oberoi Beach resort, which had an incredibly high level of service, the most outstanding rooms, and the best snorkelling I experienced on the trip. The corals were healthy and colourful, and I even managed to spot a couple of unicorn fish and a sneaky octopus that I only saw on my go pro footage afterwards. You can book wild dolphin and turtle swims from the boat house, along with many other ocean based activities. The food was excellent at all three resorts and especially at the Paradis sister resort, Dinarobin. The restaurant was called Umami and for good reason. The flavour combinations, taste sensations and textures were on point. I experienced delicious plant based food everywhere I went. Heart of palm is commonly used in the local cuisine, and naturally plant based, so it appeared in many of my dishes. Its sustainability as a food source is questionable depending on how it’s harvested and has been a substantial contributor to deforestation when not grown the right way.

My favourite highlight experience of all was a visit to a Resto, a home restaurant, called Escale Creole. This was the off the beaten path experience I was craving. A truly local experience. Hearing owner Marie-Christine share her passion, her journey, her love of family, food and heritage was beyond inspirational. The food speaks for itself. It was sensational. The best vegan Creole food I’ve ever had. This is definitely an experience beyond lunch, and one not to be missed on your next Mauritius trip.

I visited some exquisite chateaus on this trip. Le Château de Bel Ombre is a refined and romantic space, steeped in old world charm. It would make a beautiful stay for couples celebrating a special milestone. Château De Labourdonnais, built in 1856, is a jewel of Mauritian heritage. After viewing the beautiful architectural and design details you can enjoy lunch and rum tasting on the grounds at La Table Du Château.

There were many amazing experiences on my itinerary for this trip. I went zip lining and quad biking in Casela’s beautiful grounds, though quad biking while feeding Zebras definitely didn’t sit right for me and was ethically questionable. The zip lining was exhilarating, an absolute rush. The suspension bridge walk to get there was terrifying. If you want to face your height fears I wouldn’t recommend this. If you love heights, then this is for you. I visited Chamarel’s Seven coloured Earth Geopark and waterfall, which was an otherworldly experience. I snorkelled at the beautiful Blue Bay marine park, an absolute turquoise haven. You can even take a full day catamaran tour from here to Ile aux Cerfs. You’ll get to swim, snorkel and visit a waterfall and I will definitely be doing this next time round. Blue bay was teeming with fish and a combination of beautiful healthy and bleached corals. Sadly like many islands these days, there was a lot of plastic pollution.

My one most important travel tip would be to pack travel sickness medication. The roads are winding and mountainous and they drive quite fast so if you’re even slightly prone to motion sickness get ahead of it. I haven’t had motion sickness for many years and it was intense, especially through Chamarel.

For me Mauritius was all about the slow, yet fleeting moments. Rainbows after soft rain showers, sunset swims, witnessing an engagement on the beach, diving into the underwater world, swaying in a beach hammock, local market shopping in the mountains, and sunset cocktails in the pool with the lovely women I had the privilege of traveling with. These are the moments I’ll remember most, and will live on in my heart when I think of Mauritius.

With love and gratitude,

Helen xx

Devasom Khao Lak Beach Resort & Villas

May 4, 2023

Photography – Helen Janneson Bense

Location – Devasom Khao Lak Beach Resort & Villas | Koh Pah Island | Similan Islands – Thailand

Experiences – Devasom Signature spa | Sunset Beach picnic | Floating breakfast | Koh Pah Island with Khao Lak Wonderland | Similan Islands with Wow Andaman

Accessories – W + Co Seashell Gold Necklace | To the Sea Bodychain | Chillbeans Round Sunglasses

This was my sixth visit to this amazing country and I was so excited to explore a new area. I didn’t realise at the time that Khao Lak is the most perfect place for me. The low key, relaxed, laid back, surf beach vibes are definitely my pace. Khao Lak is also a hub for divers/snorkelers from around the world as there are epic underwater experiences in the nearby islands.

This Thailand trip was a mother/daughter adventure with my sweet angel Jade, an opportunity for us to connect, and also to remind my almost adult teen that the world is filled with endless possibilities and that she can do anything her heart desires in life. It’s that pivotal time in her life where everything is questioned and uncertainty about our path can be overwhelming. My favourite part of this whole trip was watching her confidence grow as she leapt heart first into every experience, embracing the unknown and trusting in herself.

We stayed at the stunning Devasom Khao Lak Beach resort & villas, located just over an hour from Phuket. The location is quiet, peaceful, where the ocean and forest meet, creating a timeless sanctuary in nature. The resort name, Devasom, is derived from Sanskrit meaning ‘Angels Residence.’ I can confirm it indeed feels like the most angelic, heavenly place. You are greeted with a gong that echoes its harmonious resonance through your entire being. Every afternoon magnificent light rays pierce the sky creating picturesque views and dreamlike feelings. The kind, friendly faces that greet you each day warm your heart and make you feel at home. You’ll soon lose all sense of time as the tropical scents and soothing sounds elevate you. You’ll feel as though you are walking on a cloud. It’s been a sensory joy for me each day noticing all the sacred geometric design details, spotting wildlife, and taking in the serene nature. Every sunrise and sunset has been a deeply spiritual experience.

I really love their dedication to sustainability and to the local environment and community. They do beach clean ups every morning, source local ingredients for their restaurants, and provide a school lunch fund for nearby local schools, adding a nutritional boost to the children. They have a school scholarship initiative and employ local residents to support their community creating a happy, harmonious work environment, which can then be felt by the guests.

Devasom has many accomodation options from lower budget to ultra extravagant. All are beautifully and luxuriously designed, with all the amenities you could ever need. We stayed in both the Seaside ‘Pool Paradise’ Suite and the ‘Devasom Sky Villa’ Two Bedroom Penthouse, and both were absolutely exceptional. The spacious seaside suite has stunning views over the lagoon and beach, a beautiful pool to cool off in, and a day bed to relax on. I really loved the bedroom and bath overlooking the pool. The penthouse sky villa was another level of experience. It sleeps 6, has a separate dining room, gazebo, long infinity pool, multiple lounge areas, 2 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, a steam room, double showers, and 2 spa baths. The pool also has spa jets to relax in as you take in the ocean views. We spent almost an entire day here enjoying the space, listening to music, laughing, and eating way too much delicious Thai food. Ask for villa 11 if you book this villa type, as this one is very private, and surrounded by a palm tree forest on one side, creating a feeling as though you’re in the middle of the jungle.

There are 2 restaurants on site – Devasom Beach Bar and Grill, which is western style cuisine, and Takola Thai Restaurant. We loved them both, absolutely exceptional food and service, though we fell more in love with the traditional Thai food at Takola. The Thai curries were out of this world. The Beach bar is ideally located by the main pool and by the beach so it’s wonderful to watch the sunset from here. You can also have a beach picnic set up which is an experience not to be missed. We enjoyed the most magical Thai sunset, sipping on cocktails and mocktails, enjoying delicious vegan treats, and taking a dip in the ocean as the sun dipped over the horizon. A truly special and memorable experience. We enjoyed our breakfast and lunch at Takola most days and also in the sky villa, where we had the most amazing floating breakfast.

Our days were very full with many experiences as we wanted to visit some islands and do some snorkelling. We took two boat tours during our stay. Our first was with Khao Lak Wonderland to visit Koh Pah Island on a traditional Thai long tail boat. Koh Pah island is a sandbank island in the middle of the Andaman sea. There’s nothing but blue ocean all around you. You can choose a private or small group tour for this experience. We had a beautiful vegan lunch set up on the island, along with fresh fruits and coconuts. They set up some umbrellas and cushions so we were very comfortable as that hot sun is unrelenting. We enjoyed a swim in the crystal clear turquoise waters and then set course for some snorkelling. We saw some beautiful corals, and the cutest family of clownfish, including a little baby Nemo. This was a half day tour so it still left us with loads of time to relax at the resort.

Our next tour was to Similan Islands. This is a full day tour and one of the main reasons I wanted to visit Khao Lak. It’s the easiest place to access these islands. We did our tour with Wow Andaman and it took just over an hour to reach our first spot on this island tour. They said it would be the bluest water and whitest sand I’d ever seen. I didn’t believe them at first, coming from Western Australia, and having visited the Maldives numerous times. But they were right. It was. It was so blue. Not anything like any other islands I’ve visited in Thailand. We first stopped off for a swim and explore at postcard perfect Koh Miang, then our first snorkel of the day at Payu Island. We swam with a beautiful green sea turtle and it was nothing short of amazing. We were on such a high from this. We ventured to Ba Ngu Island and swam with more turtles before settling for lunch at Similan island and hiking Sailing rock. It’s the most picturesque spot to view the island, though be warned it gets crazy busy and everyone is lined up to get their million photos. Jade and I decided it was too crowded for us, so we grabbed a quick pic and a video and found a quieter spot on the island to enjoy. After a delicious vegan lunch we headed to more islands for snorkeling to see some beautiful corals and dreamy iridescent blue water.

While Similan island was quite crowded, and I don’t do so well with crowds, we found peace in the underwater world. I highly recommend this tour for any underwater/beach lovers as it was incredibly unique. It’s not something I have experienced anything like, anywhere else in the world.

There is really so much to do in Khao Lak, and not only tours in this area, but even at Devasom resort. You can participate in activities like yoga, stand up paddle boarding and kayak adventures along the lagoon. Take a free shuttle bus from Devasom to Khao Lak for shopping. The resort has a kids club, wine cellar, gym and a beautiful day spa. Jade and I had the most relaxing Thai massages and they were the very best I’ve ever experienced in Thailand. So definitely book yourself one while you’re here. Other tours in the area include Phang Nga Bay, visiting caves, James Bond island, Surin islands (I’m told the coral gardens here are amazing), an elephant sanctuary and sea turtle conservation tour, and Takua Pa old town markets and temples.

There are so many wonderful things I could say about this resort and this area, but it’s left me with a beautiful feeling that I can’t quite put into words. The best I can do is describe it as a peaceful, elevated, floating joy kind of feeling. I truly understand why it’s named ‘Angels Residence.’ I’m certain you’ll love this place as much as we do.

With love and gratitude,

Helen xx

Summer at Smiths

April 9, 2023

Photography – Bobby Bense | Helen Janneson Bense

Location – Smiths Beach Resort

Recommended tours – Sailing Charters WA | South West Eco Discoveries | Lake Cave

Smiths beach is arguably the best beach in the Margaret River region, a region dotted with incredible white sand beaches. What makes Smiths stand apart is its grand topography. It has a very long stretch of pristine beach with breathtaking national park as a backdrop. No matter how busy it might get, there is always a private space to enjoy. Head south and explore the hidden rock pools along the cape to cape track or north for surfing and dolphin spotting. As the sun goes down, enjoy a beach picnic from the beach, the staircase viewing platforms, or right from your very own balcony at Smiths Beach Resort.

Our top choice of accommodation for this vast region is always Smiths Beach Resort. We’ve been visiting for many years now and it continues to impress. There are many room options from budget friendly to pure luxury, all self contained, serviced and beautifully designed for relaxation in mind. Their dedication to sustainability is another reason we love this resort. Utilising the power of the sun with 270 solar panels, this is part of a continued effort to minimise their carbon footprint, increase water conservation, and protect the surrounding nature and wildlife.

Smiths is ideally located between popular towns, landmarks, beaches, wineries, restaurants and tours. Within walking distance is the Aquarium, a lagoon rock pool around 20-30 minutes hike south along the magnificent cape to cape track. The journey is just as beautiful as the destination. Read my travel tips below on how to prepare when visiting this spot.

Within 10-20 minutes drive you can visit Dunsborough, which is a hub for cafes and restaurants, boutique shopping and right on the beach of Geographe bay. Visit the ancient, subterranean caves; my personal favourite is Lake cave, which is a crystal wonderland. Set sail with Sailing Charters WA for the most scenic way to experience this coastline. It’s a small tour of max 6 people that takes you along the sheltered waters from Dunsborough to Eagle bay. Stop for a swim along the way at Castle Rock. Snorkel, swim or float on the tubes in crystal clear, turquoise water that could be mistaken for the Maldives.

For world class surfing you have multiple options from Smiths beach resort. Surf right there at Smiths, head 5 minutes away to Yallingup beach, 30 minutes north to Windmills or approx 30-40 minutes south to Gracetown or Surfers point. You can also check out Injidup for great surf or head to the natural spa for a soak, only a 10 minute drive from Smiths or approx 1.5 hour stunning hike.

The Margaret River region is a nature lovers dream. It’s teeming with wildlife, marine life and stunning flora. One of our favourite tours anytime of the year is the Woylies nocturnal tour with South West Eco Discoveries. They’re doing great things to help rehabilitate wildlife in this sanctuary zone and it offers a chance to get close and personal with some truly adorable animals. If you have dreamt of feeding and petting a wild kangaroo then this is for you. It will pull on all your heartstrings. All the kangaroos here have been rescued which is why you can touch and feed them here. Please do not attempt this in the wild.

For marine life keep your eyes peeled at Smiths beach for dolphins. From June – December keep a look out for migrating whales. Augusta and Castle rock are both great vantage points for whale spotting. For stingrays head out early to Hamelin bay where you’ll find them dotting the shoreline.

For the foodies and wine aficionados, you are in the Mecca of it right here. On the resort grounds of Smiths is Lamonts, with the best curated selection of wines you’ll find, and food created by an absolute genius in the kitchen, Kate Lamont. My favourite wineries in the area, all relatively close by, are Wise Wines, Cape Lodge, Gralyn Estate and Vasse Felix. My favourite restaurants are Meelup Farmhouse for breakfast, Glenarty Road for lunch, and Amelia Park lodge, Aravina Estate and Casina for dinner. Casina has an extensive vegan menu available as well. My last recommendation would be to stop at Eagle bay Olives for some of the regions best olives. When you’re done enjoying wines, indulging in artesian foods, and salty from your ocean adventures, you can be greeted by the comfort and relaxation waiting for you at Smiths beach resort.

Here are some of my personal travel tips for the region –

Plan a rough itinerary for your trip, especially in summer time, as tours and restaurants get booked out.
Head out early to see any of the popular spots like the Aquarium, Injidup natural spa, Canal rocks, Sugarloaf, Castle rock. In summer everywhere is very busy. If you walk around the corner of many of these spots though you’ll find your own quiet pocket of paradise, so make sure to explore.
Check winds to determine which side of Cape Naturaliste is going to be better for your activities planned.
Take a first aid kit, reusable water bottle, and appropriate footwear on all hikes. Keep an eye out for wildlife. We’ve spotted echidnas along the cape to cape track from Smiths beach to the Aquarium.
Take all your rubbish when you exit, and leave nature as you found it.
The Aquarium doesn’t have facilities so go early and go prepared with water, food and all your beach essentials. Make sure to bring your snorkel gear and underwater camera. Water shoes come in handy here as well.
Don’t try to see it all. It takes time on your first visit to the Margaret River region to get a lay of the land. Slow down, enjoy it and its many unexpected surprises. Just know that you can see more of it next time. I have been more times than I can count now and I still have so many more places I want to explore.
Bring a kayak or paddle board if you have one. Paddle anywhere along Geographe Bay and you can spots dolphins and sting rays along the way. Castle rock is my personal favourite.
Please be careful of king waves and tide changes, especially at Injidup Natural Spa. You can’t always tell when a huge wave will come crashing over. I’ve seen it go from super calm to dangerous in seconds.
Be mindful driving at dawn or dusk as kangaroos will be very active and we always see them along the side of the road. They can quickly jump in front of you so drive slowly along the roads especially at night.

And while there is so much to see and do, you’ll find that staying at Smiths beach resort is an experience in itself. You may not want to go anywhere as the resort and beach offer so much relaxation and a back to nature experience while enjoying a little luxury.

Much love and gratitude,

Helen xx

Coral Coast road trip

August 11, 2022

Up to 30% off tours, activities & things to do | Backpacker Deals

Photography – Bobby Bense | Helen Janneson Bense

Photo Locations – Morels, Cactus garden – Carnarvon | Pink Lake | Wooramel River Retreat | Beach Shack cafe – Exmouth | Turquoise bay, Oyster Stacks, Osprey bay, Yardie Creek gorge – Ningaloo Reef

Where we stayed – Wooramel River Retreat (1 night) | Exmouth (8 nights) | Horrocks (2 nights) – Western Australia

What to do at Ningaloo reef – Scenic flight over Ningaloo reef | Swim with whale sharks | Turtle Kayak tour | Yardie Creek boat tour | Hike and/or paddle along Yardie creek gorge | Snorkel at Turquoise bay, Osprey bay, Oyster stacks to see turtles | Watch sunset from the lighthouse (bring mosquito repellant)

Accessories – Linjer Peaceful Heart Necklace | Rings | Wandering Folk Arctic Folk picnic rug + Crystal Forest picnic rug | Wandering Folk Glassware

I’ve lost count now how many times we’ve made this road trip. What I do know is, it won’t be our last. Every time is unique with new discoveries of pristine, remote beaches, unexpected wildlife encounters, and family bonding time that is more precious to me than anything else in this world. This trip had it all! My favourite part was watching my teen kids connecting, laughing, playing in the ocean with joy soaked faces like they were 5 years old again.

Our final destination, Ningaloo reef, is about a 13+ hour drive from Perth. We started our trip with an overnight stop about 8 hours north at Wooramel River Retreat. We love the slow paced, outback vibes at Wooramel and the facilities are excellent. We’ve stayed in both the camping area and the self contained family rooms with the hammocks out front. Both experiences were amazing. After the long drive we enjoyed a soak in their famous Magnesium rich, artesian baths before cosying up by the communal fire. Wooramel is such a great place to meet travellers, share stories and laughs by the fire.

Along the way we have a family tradition to stop at Morels in Carnarvon for mango ice creams. They’re delicious, plant based, nothing but pure, tropical mango, and it sets the tone for what’s to come. Close by is the Carnarvon food trail, filled with tropical fruits and beautiful photogenic spots like giant, pink bougainvillea and a super sized cactus garden that is open to the public for viewing and photos. The garden will show up on maps when you’re in Carnarvon, but it is located on South River road in case your reception drops out.

Next stop for us was Exmouth, situated close by to Ningaloo reef. Once we settled into our holiday home we mapped our must visit spots to snorkel and paddle for the week. It was about an hour drive from town into Cape Range National Park each day. It honestly isn’t that bad at all, as the drive itself is simply stunning with wildlife spotting along the way. If you want to stay closer to the park, or within the park, there is camping and some self contained chalets at Yardie Creek campgrounds. There is also camping all along the national park, though very few facilities are available at the beach campsites. For a luxurious glamping option there is Sal Salis, though there is a hefty overnight rate that comes with this option. While I liked being in town for the ease of shopping, going out to cafes, etc we did spend almost all our time on the range and reef. Next year we have booked a Yardie creek chalet and will be trying some camping out too. I found an off grid campervan for hire through airbnb and they set it up/pack it down for you. All we have to do is book a campsite and show up. Pretty excited to trial this out. Will let you know how it goes next year!

This trip really exceeded expectations. We found pristine, secluded beaches and some of the best snorkelling spots we’ve ever experienced. We paddled with dolphins and swam with more turtles each day than we could actually count. The turtles were very friendly and curious and we even saw them eating jellyfish and seagrass. We were lucky enough to see leopard, white tip and black tip sharks, giant sting rays, unicorn fish, octopus, cuttlefish, lion fish, catfish, flatfish and so many different species of tropical fish I lost count! The reef is so healthy and it’s a joy to be able to experience it thriving with life. In between snorkeling and paddling we spent some time hiking at Yardie creek gorge. It’s an ancient spot with some of the cutest little rock wallabies hopping about. At first they will blend in quite well, but if you look closely and sit for awhile, you’ll start to see them in the cracks along the rock wall. You’ll also see Ospreys flying overhead and bats hiding amongst the trees. You can take a boat tour along the gorge or paddle with your stand up paddle board or kayak.

Another really amazing new experience for us was taking a scenic flight over the reef with Ningaloo Aviation. It’s an hour long flight and every moment is mesmerising. My top tip is to go around 1-2pm as the reef will be looking it’s absolute best. We saw whales, turtles, dolphins, dugongs and sharks with great clarity. The reef itself was iridescent, glowing with all shades of dreamy turquoise and blue hues. I’d definitely do this tour again as you never know what new wildlife experience awaits.

Ningaloo reef is the largest fringing reef in the world and the perfect spot to swim with whale sharks, humpback whales and manta rays. These are season dependant, though it’s worth planning your trip around what you want to experience most. For us late June/early July is the perfect time. We escape our winter in Perth, and enjoy some sunshine and warmth. We get to see all the marine life and especially love that we make it in time to see the whales which start showing up around the beginning of July. Swimming with them is still on my bucket list so maybe next year we might tick that one off.

While there are so many incredibles stops along the Coral Coast highway, like Kalbarri, Pink Lake, Shark Bay, Monkey Mia, Shell Beach, Gnaraloo, Blowholes and Coral bay, we are always so very eager to get to Exmouth and get in that water. We usually choose a couple of these stops along the way to Exmouth and back to Perth, and each year we change it up. This year we explored a new quiet coastal town called Horrocks, which was a stones throw from Pink lake and Kalbarri. It was a beautiful way to end our trip and take in a few more majestic sights along the way. We watched some of the most vibrant sunset skies that I’ve ever seen in my life. If you’ve ever watched a sunset in Horrocks you’ll know what I’m talking about. It lasted for what felt like forever. It was an otherworldly experience for sure. I actually feel like the entire trip was so dreamlike. I’ve even noticed now, a month later, I’m still dreaming of underwater experiences. How wonderful that my mind takes me back to these beautiful spots even after I’m home.

If you haven’t visited Ningaloo reef, put it on your list. And as always feel free to reach out for travel tips, questions and help to plan your dream Coral Coast trip!

With love and gratitude,

Helen xx

Reunion

May 24, 2022

Photography – Helen Janneson Bense

Locations – Mallacoota | Gipsy Point | Betka Beach | Pambula Rivermouth Beach | Snowy Mountains

The last day I saw my parents, 2 and half years ago, little did I know a bushfire of unimaginable magnitude was headed directly to their home. Our trip came to an end that very same day and we said our goodbyes, oblivious to how long our next visit would be. About an hour into our drive to Canberra airport we received an emergency evacuation text. Bushfires were sparking up everywhere. The smoke was thick, blurring our vision, and the roads were closing behind us. We had no choice but to keep on driving. I was terrified to leave my parents, knowing there was no road out of their town. We missed being trapped by the Australian Black Summer bushfires by merely hours. But what we left behind has sat heavy on my heart ever since.

Mallacoota is my parents home, but it is also a beautiful tourist destination. One that had thousands of people stranded there over the Black Summer bushfires. My parents were the lucky ones. Their home remained, and while there was a lot to clean/fix, they had a home to return to. Many didn’t. Over a hundred homes were lost in Mallacoota. And Mallacoota was just one of so many towns along the east coast that was devastated. The loss of lives, homes, forests and wildlife was a tragedy. 33 lives were lost, over 12 million hectares of bushland lost, 3084 homes lost, 1.25 billon animals lost and 60000 koalas killed/injured. I am forever thankful for all the firefighters, emergency workers, wildlife carers that worked tirelessly to save lives. And the HMAS Choules who rescued my family.

All I needed after the fires was to visit my parents, to hug them ever so tightly, and give them my love and support through this tragedy. We all know what came next and how much Covid that has impacted the entire world. It kept families apart in order to keep everyone safe. While it was heartbreaking to wait so long, those hugs were worth the wait.

What I noticed most on my return was the impact of both the fires and covid on the town, locals and my parents. The word ‘resilience’ has been thrown around a lot and it’s fitting here too. The community has indeed become increasingly resilient through their experiences. My parents too. In Finland, where we are from, there is a word known as ‘Sisu.’ It describes certain traits and behaviours in Finnish people. Sisu is a strength, a courage, a resilience, a persevering power, a stoic determination and it was something my parents reminded me of during my visit.

My time with my family was spent slowly, moving day to day at their pace. Each morning I woke up with the sun, to kangaroos on the lawn, a mama feeding her joey, the peaceful melody of birdsong, the invigorating roar of the ocean, and crisp, clean air filling my lungs. I baked with my mum, learning how to make traditional Finnish sourdough rye bread. We picked flowers from her garden and made Anzac day flower wreaths, commemorating those who have fallen and truly sacrificed for our freedom. I walked along the lake each day with my dad, saying hi to the horses and taking in those beautiful lake and ocean views. We talked and hugged and laughed and eventually cried as we said our goodbyes.

This reunion was everything we all needed. My heart is full and I know it won’t be so long until I see my mum and dad again. If these past years have taught me anything, it’s to cherish all the moments, cherish what’s right in front of me, and trust that while there is so much uncertainty in this life experience, embracing it and remembering my inner ‘Sisu’ has been my guiding light.

With love and gratitude,

Helen xx

Rottnest Travel Tips

March 15, 2022

Photography – Bobby Bense | Helen Janneson Bense

Editing – Helen Janneson Bense

Location – Rottnest Island/Wadjemup

How to get there – Sealink

Outfits – Summer Cotton Dress | Off Shoulder mini Dress | One piece swim | Swim cover

Island adventures off the beaten path are my kind of holiday. To end the summer with a bang my family and I took the Sealink eco friendly ferry across to our favorite island getaway spot Rottnest/Wadjemup.

We had a few days to explore which was an amazing opportunity to get up early and circumnavigate the entire island by bike. An adventure I highly recommend. We headed to the West End and found incredible spots for cliff jumping, empty beaches all to ourselves with the most pristine snorkelling and turquoise waters, spotting adorable quokkas along the way.

My travel tips for Rottnest/Wadjemup –

Take the environmentally friendly ferry option on board Sealink to and from the island.
Check the wind direction before heading out. Always go early to beat crowds and before winds pick up in the afternoon. If it’s a strong SW from early in the day then head to the northern side of the island – Parakeet bay, Geordie bay, the Basin. If it’s an easterly or light winds then take the opportunity to explore the coast along Parker Point rd and head all the way to the West End.
I recommend a stop at Little Salmon bay early before the crowds and SW winds for some incredible snorkelling. You’ll see a whole lot of this pink cauliflower coral so close to the shore. Just snorkel out towards the left hand side where the buoys are and you can’t miss it. This is the southern most point in Western Australia you can see coral like this due to the Leeuwin current that brings tropical warm waters and coral spawn.
Hire an e bike from Pedal and Flipper (located on the island) and explore the whole island. It’s best to prebook during high season. I love to stop and take lots of photos and enjoy each spot so an e bike was a super easy for me to carry all my gear, explore the whole island, stopping along the way. You can also ride your own bike – Bobby and our kids did this as they are absolute machines! Or jump on the hop on/hop off bus.
For the adrenaline junkies ride to the West End along Digby drive for the most epic cliff jumping spot. You’ll take the last right turn before you reach the end, which is not marked. As you ride toward Eagle bay and Mable cove there will be a high cliff to the left. The spot is along this cliff right before you go downhill and reach Mable cove. You’ll need to park your bike on the side of the road and walk down. Often you’ll see other bikes there in high season so it’s relatively easy to find. In low season you may need to wander a little more to find it. As you carefully walk down the cliff you’ll see reef and turquoise water (like the picture) to the right and a narrow channel of water to the left. This channel is where you can get back in after you jump. Be mindful of rough seas and snakes in this area and only jump if you are a confident swimmer and can make it back to the beach, just in case.
Take loads of water, food, hat, sunscreen and shade if you can carry it. There are not many facilities as you venture further so it’s best to be self sufficient. The sun can get really hot and drying in summer when you’re out all day riding. We travel wearing reef shoes which make it super easy to go from biking, hiking to snorkelling. Mine fit into my fins to make it even easier to transition.
Be mindful of snakes as you venture to the more isolated parts of the island. Bring a first aid kit if you have space and be sure to know the location of the Nursing post on the island.
To spot Quokkas with ease just wait for late afternoon/evening and they will be out and about. The Basin, the campgrounds, the pub, and the sports oval are always spots we see lots of them.
And lastly enjoy the beautiful nature but please respect the environment, never feed the Quokkas, and take all your rubbish home. We saw horrific amounts of plastic on our trek in some really remote spots too. More than we could even pick up and carry.

Wadjemup is a special place with a long history. It’s important to learn more about it, and acknowledge the traditional owners, so you can show your respect for this land/boodja we walk upon.

If you have any questions at all please don’t hesitate to ask. Happy to help you plan a wonderful adventure.

With love and gratitude,

Helen xx

Helen Janneson Bense

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